Sewing machine



June 7', 1927.

2 Sheets-Sheet 1 F. RIC KS ET AL SEWING MACHINE Filed April 2. 1921,.frllllirll June 7', 1.927.

- l l 631385 F. RlcKs E1- AL SEWING MACHINE Filed April 2, 192x 2sheets-sheet 2 Patented June 7, 192.7.

irse srarss man maxe am) ERNEST EDGAe Bresciana QF LEICESTER, ENGLAND,.AS-

sIGNoRs 'ro nrrrrnnsion vrfi;'Aoliliil'RY ,Conronnrrom or rnTEnsoN,NEWQJER- s EY, ii@ coaroianrron (on NEW JERSEY.

SEWING MACHINE] Application 'led April 2,;1921,\Seria1 No.V 457,931,andi'n GreatV BritainMay 31,n 1920.,

'invention relates to hooked needle.

' generically as shoes) and itis more especially concerned withywelthandling mechanism in welt sewing ,machines..

The most highly developed formof ywelt sewing machine is ,equipped `withdevices which can be thrown into. operation at the conclusion ofsewingitoadvaiice a gripperto engage vthe welt near ,the sewingpoint.and to sever the weltso held, Vreleasingthe ,shoe andrretaining a holdongthe end of the supply of welt-ing,'such devices being automaticallyoperated at the beginning ofa fresh sewing operation to movealong theline of feed during the initial 'feed of the work vby the machine'andthen to release the Awelt yand retire to inoperative position.

in the use Aof machines soequippedit has been known to. occur thatthedevices for holding and severing the welt (which are tlii'own intooperation by a pull on the welt) have come into operat-ionvat someundesired time as, forin'stance, owing to a pull applied to the weltwhen the machine was stopped at some time other than at the completionof the sewing of a welt, and it isone object of the inventionto providemeans eliminating this source of possible inconvenience.

Again, 'the welt-holding gripper in a ma-` chine yhaving these devicesrequires to lhave its flower pivot adjusted if the thickness ofweltsewii varies oo nsiderablyy in different classes of work, tolmaintaiiiapproximate parallelism of the jaws whenclosed on the welt andsecure uniform gripping action. Another object of :the invention istoelimif nate as far as possible the need lforkadjusb" ment Y in this Yresp ect.

Yet again, these devices have been so organized that thelower gripperjaw ,received upward (gripperfclosing) movement .onlyhad attained aitsadvanced` position, with the result thatit 'has been.

after the gripper known to occur thatthe lower jaw in moving upwardly,scraped along v the surface of the shoevupperto thedetriment of thelatter, It is yet anotherobject o fythe inventionto overcome this 4disfads*antage.

-A feature of the invention contemplates the provision in a welt shoesewing machine of poweroperated mechanism for severing the weltdependent Afonoperatioirupon the performance of .a 1plurality .of:separate 0p-v eratioiis on,th e .part of the operatorafterI thecompletion of the ,sewing operation.

Another feature of the .invent-ion contemplates the ,provision in a weltshoe sewing. Vmachine o fmeans for lio-ldingtheweltafter the1 completionof the ,sewing operation `comprisinga pair of welt gripping jawspivoltallyV movablewith relation ,to each other, onelo-f which hasweltengaging surface p0rt-ions longitudinally inclined Awith relation toG5 `each other to enable thejawsito uniformly f grip welts of differentthicknesses.V

Another f eatureof L,the invention contemy' plates the provision in` awelt shoe sewing machine of power operated means lfor grippingthe weltafter the completion of the sewing` operation coinprising'a pair ofrelatively movable welt gripping jaws, and

means for advancing the jaws toward rthe welt,.for partially closing thejaws' during said advancing ymovement and forcausing 4thejaws to gripthe `welt at theend of the advancing movement, suchclosing ofthe awsduring 'their advancing movement preferably being suflicient to causetheirends to llightly engagethe outer edge portionof the welt.

in the art from lthe 'ensuing description of'a preferred form of the'inventienlas applied by Away of example, toa welt vsewing inachineofthe type illustrated rand described in thepatent toTopham No.1,099,326,

j In the accompanying drawings of this preferred formof the inventionTheabove and other objects ofthe inven; i tion will become fullyevidentto those skilled Figurel isa frontend elevation, partly f iinsection, of a welt `shoelsewiiig machine eine bodyingtheseveral featuresof the invention in their preferred form; Fig.;v 2 is a plan view,partly Ain section, of a portion ofthe front end of the headof themachine; Fig; 3 is adetail plan view,- partly insection, show-v ing ythewelt guiding and ,measuring devices.

and VVcertain .parts cooperating' therewith; Figl isa sideelevation,partly lin section,

Iof the welt; :engaging 'end .of :the welt` cut- *Y .ting and holdingdevice; Fig -5 is albottoin .plaiiwviewjof-the-portion of the weltcutting yandholdingdevice illustratedrinFig. 4l; and

Fig. V6 isa' detail sectional elevation ofthe'V f -,;welt measuring.devices.

, The `1m-a"chiiie.-illustrateiilf,in the drawings I is provided withthe usual stitch forming devices comprising the curved hook needle 2,awl 4, and looper 5.

The main shaft 6 of the machine is normally V'driven by a belt pulley 7fast' on the shaft and driven by a belt operated from a countershaftthrough a treadle-controlled friction clutch. to allow the clutch toopen so that the belt ceases to drive theV pulley y7 alsoV throws inmechanism which slows down the main shaft and drives'it at low speedbackwards to a definite stopping point. The brake and reverse drivemechanism comprises a clutch formed of a member 8 fast for rotation withbut slidable along the main shaft, and a member 10 free to rotate on themain shaft butheld 'from movement axially thereof. The latter iscontinuously driven in a direction reverse to that in which the mainshaft rotates during sewing. `A cam roll on a lever 12 pivoted lon themachine frame is engaged in a cam 14 on the hub of the mem-ber 8 and thelever carries in its other arm a recess 16 into which a plunger 18(Figure 1) released (to rise under spring influence) by release of theclutch treadle can spring when the rotation of the shaft 6 brings therecess into proper position. The engagement of the plunger with therecess locks the lever 12 (which has been oscillating idly) and themember 8 is, by the cam 14, forced endwise to close the clutch 8, 10which first causes a braking effect on the shaft and then a reverserotation until a definite point is reached when the cam 14 automaticallywithdraws the member 8. To stop the machine shaft at the desired point,a stop cam 20 is fast on the main shaft and is engaged by a stop arm 22raised into its path when the other arm 24 of the lever of which thestop arm forms part and which is pivoted at 26 is swung rearwardly ofthe machine on the reversal of the main shaft. is effected by a part 28pivoted at one end to the arm 24 and having on its other end twosegmental surfaces the upper of which, being theV nearer to the pivot ofthis part,

` normally rests on a sleeve fast on the main shaft. On the reversal ofthe main shaft a notch in this sleeve acts on the part 28 and rocks yitto raise it bringing its other segmental surfaceV against the sleeve andthrowing the arm 24 backwards.

The welt passes to the welt guide at the sewing point round a rotarydrum 30 (Figures 3 and 6) to which it is clamped firmly, when themachine is stopped, by a member 32 'pivoted to a rotary spindle 84..This clamping is effected by a bell crank lever 36 having the end ofone arm engaging the arm 24 and the end of'its other arm engaging ayielding plunger 38 (Figure 8). When the welt is thus clamped thewithdrawal of the shoe rotates the spindle 34 and raises an The releaseof this treadlek This rearward movement is pivoted to arm 40 fast to itwhich by connections with a pawl 42 raises the latter to throw intoaction, as will be described, the welt cutting and welt end holdingmechanism, the throwing in of this mechanism thus coming under the`control ofthe operator by movement of the 'shoe and the amount of weltwhich can be drawn through the welt guide before severance beingdefinitely determined.

`The raising'of the pawl 42 allows movement of a roll-carrying ring 44to close a roll clutch (the ring being urged in this drection by aspring not shown) 'connecting the member 10 with an eccentric free torotate on the main shaft and surrounded by a` strap 46 connected tomechanism for rotating pinions 48, 50 fast on the same 'shaft 52 andoperating the welt cutting and holding mechanism. A pawl 54 opens theroll clutch after `half a revolution of the eccentric so that the weltholding device remains in forward position holding the welt until, atthe appropriate. time after the recommencement of sewing, a cam '56lowers the pawl to release the ring 44 to complete its revolution andcause the welt holding mechanism to release the welt and return tonormal position.

The welt cutting and holding mechanism comprises two rack bars 58 and60, vthe former of which carries the iiXed jaw 62 (Figure 4) of the weltholding grppers and has pivoted to it the lower moving jaw 64 and the.latter of which carries the cutting knife. The two pinions 48, 50advance these bars together until the jaws straddle the welt when thepinion 48, which is an interrupted pinion, ceases to'operate and theother drives the bar 60 forward relatively to the bar 58 to cause a cam66 on' the bar 60 to close the jaws on the welt andl to cause theknifetov yadvance across the jaws to sever the welt.

The parts above described may be and preferably are the same, except ashereinafter described, as the corresponding parts Voit the machineillustrated and described in a lock nut 68 on a rod 70 passing looselythrough an arm 72 fast tothe pawl 42 and having its other end pivoted at74 to one end of a lever 76 on the same pivot 26 as the stop arm 22. Theother end lof the lever 76 the upper end of a treadle rod 78. f

A stud '80 has pivoted on an eccentric portion thereof 82 a lever 84having a -boss 86 to engage a corresponding boss 88 en the armthefmeehme.Stepeheiveyee'endffin e@ ,d

atpits lower; end o-the vleyereets upon the 1a tient@ hold the: twefbsesinl coeteet- I lm ygadditio this same epringraises theree'r-A Wardend of.the V le'ver. "6 Yto ,hold the mite down on, the arm l72 andthe treadlerod -7-8 passes. The lower-entlof theleyerf84 durf y 2li-f holdingcleric@ has; We fiveltzerrgegingfaces 104 l IWhdllj .f'erevy helned withrele# tion to each other and are continuzitorie orf' l Figure -;4,sopthat'j a comparatively thi-IL andy narrow, Welt is tlie'upper @W169iby the face 102 and thieker Wider Weltigig is gripped to 'the f upperjawbythe face 104,' the jew '6 4 heilig mounted er1. e pifot bjolt or;piiijlw tor movement. in'clepeideritlyj of zuigarirll` lOS'JQalsomountedv on the pivot pin 106) i-,vliieliisfoon` nectedrtheretobytorsion Spring 11D ofs'ulof-Q eeirif oir the knife bary ,60 Aacting vo iife,er0ll 1l4'moiig1ited- 102'i zuidA each' other, as shown fin grippedto stantial length so theirA i the on' tliegar-mplOSfeloses thedevioe'orrwjelts @hie heme thelewer vrjew moreel@ tote gage the lowerr surfaee-fofr the, Welt/f5. tlrepeam countered. ,Y

the Je-We 0n the A.Welt is heitere-re@ Smell @S dem G te p 'depress the,Cre

pressiiig'tlie spripg fill@l use 4 lend, 1

'leve-1*, 84 nesting, ori thefeurfeeef96. t

Strength'a'e toiriekejjt,impossible by, ;sri'elfi,Iv y

jg() A lower; 64 'Off [thefwelt 1 that this eoristriitioii andfgay'rrengement thu'sq'veryging, irijehereeter' Wtli zi/ pressuretliglt. dif-Hers lou-blittlerin lthe diiierent eaeee Thegreletivem-aSeesp-ftlie armlOS'eridfjeW,

6 4 4are Spell tliatesgsoong-as, in the telve-ricey 0il theqbei- '58,1 afigfaee ,115 o ii thefarrrilO passes off oani.,p ijeee 116 Aliest onthe@niet- Y combination, etiteliyfoririiug devices, grrieeli- 'armeni liersevering j uste-r `errori-gli' forV the tipe ofthe jews to -lstradellie.tlie ,narroweetgweltz likelytovv be en 4 v The IMSS` eetngthue@ @lese YirlY no Way toimpede tlieffdrtlier edvarieeof l when"theaelwtnee'poftlie fleetF 60 eiiises tlieg--poweooperatedlrieehaiiieiiijoneeveringf welh'fmeene p combinati-Ton, {stitch-tionen'deviee cen-neetlens epeeble the V)seviti-ieg A eed means U- iritoQpertioii.

erm, 2440 theflet brieejthe .fl-@Wer endl oir tliegleizer over therecess lQOjelidtlllemelt iittigigV ,and ,holding Idevicefem libe.,thrown.; into operzttioi.n I This howeverfeznrmotzf V loebrought-about bymerelya-drewne:the Shoe. away .from the sewing porit,or-",by f depreseing the tredlewhili 1.lifts tl1 rod 7D. but ,bethfeijeretene here to. :eetfbrld Further, v to giiar'd {fl-against: Vur1intentio operat-ioiifoi the lztttertreadle it is-"jpl" at inappropriatevdiet-mide :to one ,Sidel machine sterti gt eadlee fdf'onA e vsoule`hthigher level.Y

lVliile' itis preferred to employ the Sp-eeififcufig:

copstruetionand. arr engermeritfof parte illus,-

vention lievingj beendindicated arid 'je .ingichine embodyiiig theseveral features ,of the Y., invention, inv

'aft-er the eoiripletionxjolf thel Vst-:vsiiigg loperil;

.tion for Controlling-gime'foperatioiiljpor Seid-` hem@ .feiveeltahee e32er e? 10oA ziiratte 4operetionson the part orrtlie operatorl l i eine,

Ying.,

' throwing said :mechanism `into opera-tion,` treadle connections!` forcontrolling Vsaid meansV and means for preventing operation incombination, stitch forming devices, mechanism'for severing theVwelt,means tor of said treadleifconnections.until yafter the completionof the sewing operation.

. v6'. A'welt shoev Sewing machine having, in combination, stitchvforming devices, treadle :actua/ted mea.ns,`mechanism forV severing thewelt, ."means "dependent" upon -movement of the welt and upon operationof thetreadle VVactuated means for," throwing saidfmech'a-v nism intooperatiom and ,means forprevent ing the!l operation of thevtreadleactuated means until after'the completion Vofthe sewing operation.v

Y.7. A` welt shoev sewing Vmachine having, inl combination, stitch Yforming devices,

mechanism `for severingy the welt, means act- Y ing upon movement of thewelt to throw said vmechanism into operation, means for holding saidwelt from movement while they machine is at vrest to prevent saidmechanism from being thrown into operation, and

releasing said holding means.

.means under the control of the operator fory 'A welt shoe sewingmachine having,`in5 lcombination, stitch forming devices, a welt 3omeasuring device, means` for severing the weltthrown into Voperation bythe welt measuring ydevice during the operation oi said vdevice inmeasuring the welt, mecha.

' nismf for preventing the operation of said upon"y movement of theweltto throw said i c Vmechanism into operation, means comprisingl alever capable of being locked in posi-1- tion to prevent Said'mechanism'from being thrownflintoy operation and movable in one" device. andmeansunder the control ofthe operator while theAmachiii-e is at `restfor releasing said `mechanism to permit operation of the welt measuringdevice. 9. A `welt shoe sewingmachine having,` in combination, stitchforming devices, mechanism Vtor severing they welt, means actingdirection by the operator independently V'of the .welt to permit saidmechanism to-Jbe thrown into operation by a movement-"of the welt, meansfor locking said lever in' v position during the normal 'sewingfoperaftion, and means lfor releasing said' locking for locking said.' treadle1 connections out ot ymachine "to release tre'adleV `closing Athe vjaws`Welt gripping advancing the elt "shoe sewing -machine haviiig,

power operated' mechanism for severing the welt, means for throwingsaidmechanism into operationy upon movement ofthe welt, and means torpreventing said mechanisml in^combination' stitch forming devicesff-Afrom being thrown into operation during*-V ing controlled bytheopera-torga'fter the coi'ii-4 1 pletion of the Asewingoperation y'andindef pendently thereof to' permit said mechanism to be thrown' intooperation;y

X12, A welt shoe sewing machinerhaving,

the normal sewing operation 'capable of be-V I in combination, stitchforming` devices, andV power operated-means for gripping the weltVafterpthe lcompletion of the sewing operation'v comprising a* pair ofrelatively-removable welt grippingfjaws,andfmeans -for advancingk thejaws toward. the welt',^for partially movement and for-causing the jawsto grip the weltat the end-of the advancing movement.

13.7A welt shoe sewing vmachine having,

in combination, stitch forming devices, and

means for gripping the: welt-` after the completion ofthe sewingoperation comprising pair of relativelyinovable welt gripping jaws,means foradvancing the jaws toward the welt, and means =forv closingrthe -jawsv lightly onthe outer edge portion of the welt during saidadvancing during thef advancing mov-ement of the jaws and for causingthe ljaws to grip ythe welt at the end'of said advancing movementif.ali-'A welt shoe sewing machinehaving7 in combination, stitchlformingdevices, Yand means for severing and'holding'the welt icomprising a reciprocating bar, pairofV jawsmounted on thebar, areciprocating knife carrying bar, means 'for j jaw carrying-bar towardthe welt and :tor lpartially closingftlie jaws dur-V ing .the advancingmovement, means for ad-r vancing "the Zknife carryingvbar "after-thecompletionl of the advancingfmovementot the jaw carrying bar, and,meal-msi,compris-V Ving a cam on Y'the knife carryingfbartocause thejaws 'togrip'j the welt duringfsaid advancingy movement of the knife'carryingV bai.-

- Y i '5 l5. 'A sewing machine'having in combina-y tion, stitch formingdevices, and means for) severing and holding the welt afterthecompletionof the sewing operation Acomprising a reciprocating Vb'arAprovided with f a 'fsta-` tionary welt gripping jaw', a' cooperatingVwelt gripping'jaw'jpivotally mounted on the bar, an arm pivot'ally'mounted on the bar,

aftorsionspring connecting 'thearm and pivf. otallymounted jaw,-meansfor reciprocating the bar lto'move the jaws 'toward andifrom lthe welt,means cooperating 'with'fsaid army for opening -the vrj aws duringV themovement offthe bar away fromlthe welt, and for par;

Y tially closing Ythe uj awsfduri'ng" the movement of the bar toward/the'we1t,f"a-knifecarrym j the welt during said movement of the knifecarrying bar toward the Welt.

' 16. A welt shoe sew-ing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, and means for holding the welt after the completion of thesewing operationl comprising a stationary welt gripping jaw, and ayieldingly actuated pivotally mounted'welt gripping jaw having weltengaging surface portions longitudinally inclined with relation to eachother for cooperating with the stationl ary jaw to grip welts ofdiiferent thicknesses.' .Y

17. A welt shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch formingdevices, and means for holding the welt after the completion of thesewing operation comprising a pairv of welt gripping jaws -pivotallymovable with relation to each other, one o f which has welt engagingsurface portions longitudinally inclined with relation to each other toenable the jaws to uniformly grip welts of'V different thicknesses.

yFRED RICKS. i

ERNEST GEORGE EDGAR BURGOYNE.

